Ingredient library.

About the values

Scope: HLB (Griffin's 0-20 scale) is defined for NONIONIC surfactants. Griffin 1954: ionic HLB values 'do not follow a weight percentage basis' and must be determined experimentally; Uniqema 2004: an anionic 'HLB of 40 or so' is 'a relative or comparative number and not a mathematical calculation'. Entries typed anionic/amphoteric (SLS ~40, soaps 12-20, SSL, potassium cetyl phosphate, lecithin, glyceryl stearate SE/citrate) are indicative only and should not be averaged into nonionic blends. Formula Botanica adds that many natural emulsifiers have ionic character and many suppliers no longer publish HLB values.

Precision: Griffin 1954 states HLB values are 'believed to be correct to +/-1'; Griffin 1949 reported required HLBs only in half-unit steps 'due to lack of precision'; ICI 1987 and Convergent also quote +/-1. Differences of <=1 unit between sources are within that noise.

Required HLB is an experimental, system-dependent quantity (Griffin, Uniqema 2004 Span 80/Tween 80 'kit' HLB 2-16). It depends on oil grade/purity, emulsifier chemical type, phase ratio, temperature and process; matching HLB does not guarantee stability - chemical type matters too (Griffin 1954; Greengredients). Values for the same material differ between sources (see 'conflicts'), and one INCI can be sold in several HLB grades (FDA GSRS lists Cetyl PEG/PPG-10/1 Dimethicone at HLB 2, 3, 4 and 5, sucrose stearate at 11, 12, 15 and 16, PEG-9 dimethicone at 4.5 and 10). Croda measured some wax/ester values at 70 C.

Calculation: required HLB of an oil phase = sum of (weight fraction of each oil in the oil phase x its required HLB); emulsifiers are excluded (Griffin 1949; ICI 1987; Uniqema 2004). Emulsifier blend HLB = weight-average (Griffin 1949); to hit target X with A and B: %A = 100(X - HLB_B)/(HLB_A - HLB_B) (Greengredients). Blends of a low- and a high-HLB emulsifier usually outperform a single emulsifier at the same HLB (Uniqema 2004; Convergent; Greengredients).

O/W vs W/O: almost all tabulated required HLBs are for O/W. Griffin 1949: 'When we speak of a required HLB, reference is usually made to the O/W type'; the W/O range 'appears to be quite narrow and in the low HLBs'. Sourced W/O values here are mostly 4-8 (Griffin, Greengredients, Magis).

Rules of thumb (O/W): vegetable oils ~6, silicone oils 8-12, petroleum oils ~10, typical ester emollients ~12, fatty acids and alcohols 14-15 (Uniqema 2004); plant oils 6-8, esters ~12, fatty alcohols/acids 14-15 (Formula Botanica). Exceptions exist (castor oil 14; argan oil 11 measured by Yaghmur et al. 1999). HLB application bands (Uniqema 2004): 1-3 mixing unlike oils; 4-6 W/O emulsions; 7-9 wetting powders into oils; 7-10 self-emulsifying oils; 8-16 O/W emulsions (blends); 13-15 detergents; 13-18 solubilising oils into water.

How much emulsifier: ICI 1987 - 'a good starting point is 3% emulsifier based on the total formula weight for a system with low solids to as much as 10% for a system with high solids'; on the basis of emollient content 'the emulsifier concentration should range between 20% to 40% of the oil phase'. Uniqema 2004 example: 4% emulsifier for a 16% oil phase (25%), noting the correct HLB 'usually translates to superior stability at a lower use level'. Lotioncrafter (Emulsifying Wax NF): about 25% of the oil phase + 1% (typically 3-5% lotions, 5-10% creams). Convergent typical oil phase: primary emulsifier 1-2% + secondary 1-2%. Greengredients uses 15-20% emulsifier on the fatty phase for required-HLB test series. Solubilisation needs far more: ICI solubilization Table 9 shows 3-13 g surfactant per 1 g of essential oil/perfume. Product-specific: DSM Amphisol K 1-2% primary / 0.5% secondary; ABIL EM 90 1.5-2.5% of emulsion for 22-35% oil phase (Glenn Corp); Montanov 202 3-5% for 5-30% oil (Lotioncrafter); Olivem 1000 3-4% fluids, 7-8% creams (Lotioncrafter).

Fatty alcohols and stearic acid (required HLB ~15-17) are often present at a few percent as thickeners/co-emulsifiers and push a blend's calculated required HLB up sharply; MakingCosmetics notes they create O/W emulsions 'only to a limited degree'.

Self-emulsifying complete systems (Emulsifying Wax NF/Polawax, Montanov 68, Olivem 1000, Arlacel 165, glyceryl stearate SE, Arlacel 2121) are designed to be used on their own; their quoted HLB is approximate and Croda says Arlacel 2121 works 'irrespective of' the oil's required HLB.

Natural phospholipids: Otto et al. 2020 found literature HLB values for lecithins 'inaccurate and confusing' and that assigning one exact HLB is inappropriate. Potassium cetyl phosphate: DSM's 9.6 is 'theoretical'; Personal Care Magazine (2021): HLB estimation would not predict that it is an effective emulsifier.

Source limits: the ICI Americas booklet 'The HLB System' (1976/1984) itself could not be opened (Croda's current 'HLB System - Personal Care Edition' is behind a login; other copies were blocked). The 'ici1987' values come from ICI Americas' separate 'Emulsification of Cosmetic Ingredients' bulletin (1982/1987); the Uniqema 2004 presentation is the booklet's successor. Values that hobbyist sites attribute to the 1984 booklet were not used unless confirmed by another source. Hobbyist aggregators (diy-cosmetics.com, hlbcalc.com) were consulted but not cited because they do not give per-value sources.

“NOI →” opens the ingredient’s Natural Origin Index on isthatnatural.com, where it’s in the database. Values are not guaranteed: check the technical data sheet for the grade you buy.